Journal of cosmetic science

Free-choice-profile descriptive analysis of sticks with conditioning agents.

PMID 17256075


Nine formulations to be used as stick bases were manufactured using sodium stearate, propyleneglycol, and water, adding different concentrations of the following conditioning agents: octyldodecanol, PPG-5-ceteth-20, and PPG-15-stearyl ether. Free-choice-profile methodology was used to select the most adequate concentration of the agents in order to improve sensory properties. The sensory descriptors were grouped into four categories: stick aspect, sensations during application, sensations immediately after application, and sensations five minutes after application. Formulations containing 4% and 6% octyldodecanol and 2% PPG-15-stearyl ether were considered inadequate, since they showed unwanted qualities such as exudation, a slow absorption rate, high oiliness, and residue. Formulations containing 2% octyldodecanol; 2%, 4%, and 6% PPG-5-ceteth-20; and 4% and 6% PPG-15-stearyl ether presented different characteristics regarding the four categories of descriptors evaluated, all of them being acceptable considering the properties sought.